Squealing noise after installing a four blade prop

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RedTaco

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Long story short, I was having multiple performance issues with my 2004 1801 getting on plane and achieving speeds over 22mph. I contacted Prop God, who suggested I try a Solas 3413-130-15 prop before committing to a stainless steel prop. (Props to him!!!) After installing the new prop, there was a squealing noise from 400-1800rpms. Thinking it might be the water pump, which hadn't been changed for some time, I installed a new one. When I dropped the boat in a ran it, the squeal was still happening.
My question is: Would a four blade prop cause this squeal? With all thaT said, the 1801 jumps out of the hole and I achieved 30mph without hitting WOT.
Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!
 

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I should add that the motor is a 2004 Yamaha 115 four stroke with 245 hours. All fluids; oil, filter, fuel filter and lower unit oil were done in April.
 
How does the prop feel when you spin it by hand in neutral? any resistance/noise?
15p prop seem a little lite unless you are running fully loaded all the time or towing a lot.
I run the OEM 17p stainless and it jumps out of the water.
 
When you see hoofprints, look for a horse before you look for a zebra. Most likely cause is the thing you just changed.
Pull new prop, put original prop back on, and look for new shiny wear marks on new prop and LU while disassembled. Also just glance at the thrust washer, splines etc, make sure you didn't put something on backwards.
I once put brake pads on backwards. Man, I was HOT for those clowns selling me defective pads. Woops. All is forgotten if you are a shift worker.
The old prop may have a spun hub. RPM increase without a corresponding acceleration.
Just few things to try. Update the thread with what you find, someone will eventually repeat it. Good luck!
 
Can you determine if the squeal is coming from lower unit or the powerhead? I’m not familiar with the 115 but on bigger Yamaha’s, a squeal from the bushing that the drive shaft passes through is pretty common. I would put a big gob of grease on the drive shaft when I was reinstalling the lower unit after a water pump change and most of the grease would get scraped off as it past through that bushing and it would usually keep it quite for a hundred hours or so.

If the squeal is coming from that bushing, it’s more of a nuisance then a problem, but fortunately replacing that bushing isn’t major surgery either…
 
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Something is not right with your speed. I had a 2018 1801 with the 115 Yami and OEM prop...think it was 17 pitch. Jumped out of the hole quickly and WOT was between 39 and 40 mph at 5600 rmp. Check to see what prop is being delivered on a new 1801 with the 115. Really shouldn't need a 4 blade prop on such a light boat.
 
Man, give us more. Has it ever reached WOT (6000rpm)? Bottom paint, extra accessories etc? This was in a discussion on THT about a 115 vs 150.


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A three bladed prop is best for that boat. I run two 115’s. One is on a 17’ and the other is on an 18’. You should be idling at 650 to 800 and full throttle 5600-5900. Near 40 mph is what you should be at with a light and clean hull. Has the timing belt or tension pulley been checked ? Pulleys like to whine.
 
Man, give us more. Has it ever reached WOT (6000rpm)? Bottom paint, extra accessories ect? This was in a discussion on THT about a 115 vs 150.


View attachment 40373Below is a pic of the boat. I installed a FishMaster T-top with a radio box and four lights. Bottom is painted. Boat has a 60 gallon gas tank. Boat reaches 6,000rpms with the new prop but only hits 30mph at close to WOT,
 

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Are you sure it’s not 30 knots? Also, check all four plugs and wires. Even low and high pressure fuel pumps.
 
How does the prop feel when you spin it by hand in neutral? any resistance/noise?
15p prop seem a little lite unless you are running fully loaded all the time or towing a lot.
I run the OEM 17p stainless and it jumps out of the water.
There is no resistance when I spin the prop while in neutral.
Something is not right with your speed. I had a 2018 1801 with the 115 Yami and OEM prop...think it was 17 pitch. Jumped out of the hole quickly and WOT was between 39 and 40 mph at 5600 rmp. Check to see what prop is being delivered on a new 1801 with the 115. Really shouldn't need a 4 blade prop on such a light boat.
Emailed Parker today to ask what props are being shipped on the new 1801 with 115 Yamaha for strokes. 13 x 19 was their response.
 
Man, give us more. Has it ever reached WOT (6000rpm)? Bottom paint, extra accessories ect? This was in a discussion on THT about a 115 vs 150.


View attachment 40373
Below is a pic of the boat. I installed a FishMaster T-top with a radio box and four lights. Bottom is painted. Boat has a 60 gallon gas tank. Boat reaches 6,000rpms with the new prop but only hits 30mph at close to WOT.
 

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Great boat. Any chance your centerline drain is clogged and you're carrying extra water weight? Based on bottom paint, it looks like your waterline heads down slightly, back to front. See if water flows freely from anchor locker to the bilge.
 
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Great boat. Any chance your centerline drain is clogged and you're carrying extra water weight? Based on bottom paint, it looks like your waterline heads down slightly, back to front. See if water flows freely from anchor locker to the bilge.
I'll check that out! Thanks!
 
In that Vid..... I can't tell which mounting hole the engine is in, BUT It sure looks like it's mounted to low.

Engine height adjustment is the FIRST thing you do, BEFORE a prop change.

You will need 2 people for this. Take the boat to a fairly smooth body of water. Get it to cruse speed. Trimmed properly. Now with someone else at the helm.... YOU go back and see where the anticavation plate is running in comparison to the waters surface. It should be 1/4 to 1/2in bellow the surface. If its deeper...It's causing Drag and effecting your performance and fuel mileage.

EDIT: If you change the prop Before you adjust the engine height and then adjust the engine height the engine will overspeed.
 
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