windlass rode?

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"I've used these guys. Their stuff can be a little rough around the edges, but a great buy otherwise."http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststan.html

Hey Nick, I just checked this site out and purchased an anchor swivel on sale for $16.00, regular price $122. And free shipping. Thanks for the link.
 
iltfish":3uxfa3bc said:
grouper Jim-
Where did you get that swivel from?

got it at WM. there are two types......ones with and without ball bearings.

the ball bearing ones do that swivel thing mo betta. :mrgreen: 8)
 
From Center Console Angler: Taliking about Windlesses

Next you must consider your choice of rode and chain. Three-strand nylon is undoubtedly the most common choice in anchor rodes because it’s cheap, it’s strong, and it’s resistant to abrasion, but it may not be the best choice when using a windlass and gypsy. Three-strand nylon gets stiff when used in salt water, and it tends to kink when you try to lay it into a locker, forming loops known as “hockles.” These hockles jam windlasses when deploying and retrieving the anchor, causing unnecessary headaches, plus three-strand needs about 16 inches of “fall,” the measurement of open space between the top of the anchor locker and the top of the pile of rode, to work well.

To combat these problems, many manufacturers recommend using “8-Plait” line, a tighter weave that resists kinking and coils much more easily. A recent document from Lewmar touting the virtues of 8-Plait lists the following advantages:

* 8-Plait will not get stiff when used in salt water.
* 8-Plait will fall into the locker as long as there is a clear and free space under the hawse pipe.
* 8-Plait will not get stiff enough to where the line wants to stand up and not enter the locker.
* 8-Plait will not loop over on itself and creates loops or hockles.
* 8-Plait is 30 percent more effective in smaller lockers.
* 8-Plait requires only 8 to 10 inches of fall to work properly in a hands-free operation.

It’s important to point out that the rode must always be tied off to a cleat when the boat is anchored, relieving pressure on the windlass and preventing damage to the rode. If you let the weight of the boat ride on the rode as it comes out of the windlass, the rode can be pulled tight into the gypsy and cut. Windlasses aren’t made to hold the boat while at anchor.
 
I use these anchor rode markers on my 3-strand nylon.
Measure out your rode, loosen the 3-strand, insert the marker, and you're done.

MED-306.JPG


That way if I'm in 30 feet of water and I know (due to conditions) that I want a 4:1 scope, it's easy to pay out the proper amount of line.

How do you mark 8-plait rope?
 
Megabyte":120s9art said:
Measure out your rode, loosen the 3-strand, insert the marker, and you're done.


How do you mark 8-plait rope?

Yep, and don't forget to account for the distance between your pulpit and the water in making your measurements, so the first 8' or so, your anchor isn't in the water yet.

And as Jim said, use painters tape to make clean separation marks. I only used 2 colors. Red for 50' and Blue for 100'. If I see a red and a blue streak coming out, I know I have 150' out.
 
TheOtherLine":2bnes2dl said:
From Center Console Angler: Taliking about Windlesses

...It’s important to point out that the rode must always be tied off to a cleat when the boat is anchored, relieving pressure on the windlass and preventing damage to the rode. If you let the weight of the boat ride on the rode as it comes out of the windlass, the rode can be pulled tight into the gypsy and cut. Windlasses aren’t made to hold the boat while at anchor.

I can attest to the need to tie off. Don't ask me why I know that little fact.

Dave

aka
 
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