1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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I agree but front bilge can be blocked. I use a wet dry shop vac to remove old water and debris. Is the trailer height sufficient for good drainage? I like a little bleach added for killing power. using a 5 gal bucket, add 4 gal of hot water if available, 20 ounces of bleach (use a pop bottle) and a detergent like Simple Green, boat soap or other items but nothing with ammonia. Pour and allow to sit for one hour. scrub bilge with a soft brush. remove with vac. same for aft bilge except cycle bilge pump and open all hatches in deck, cabin and cockpit and use a cheap fan in aft cockpit hatches by batteries. Fan is blowing air to the sky. Next suggestion, is anchor locker. remove rode and clean and dry. clean locker and check the drain is working in the locker. pour bleach soapy mix in it. Have you drained your bracket or checked inside of it? The hatch can leak and Warthog replaced it with a better one but requires cutting. Stainless Marine has a newer part that is better and requires no cutting. Your call. At same time, check bracket drain plug and anode. I replaced the hatch several years ago and use sealant and does not leak but next time it does then will add a better hatch. Lastly maybe foam around tank is wet. I removed one deck pie plate and added a solar fan and install it when boat is in storage. it keeps air moving under the deck. Maybe your fresh water needs flushing and disinfecting. Check all cabin deck holes in floor and inside cabinets are clear. There is an area under berth accesible when you lift up cabin floor decks. I would cleane this area by hand several times and check berth drain holes and the limber hole in this area are clear

B2
 
Thanks guys. I’ll take a look (and sniff) at those areas and try out that concoction.


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Busy year but managed to sneak out fishing a few times. We had a light dusting of snow today so she’s stored in the barn for the winter.
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I’ve started installing a Chinese diesel air heater. I’ll post pictures as it progresses. Currently my thru hull fitting for the exhaust appears to be stuck in the Ukraine.

Here is the heater mounted in the port side compartment. I had some aluminum angle iron hanging around from a previous project so I made a mounting bracket with that.
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Looks good, once it’s up and running you’ll wonder how you did without it.


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fannin":2qppdsc5 said:
Looks good, once it’s up and running you’ll wonder how you did without it.


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I’m fired up. It’s been COLD here for a couple of weeks (-15 was our lowest). This should give me the ability to fire up the heater and work on the boat now in the winter.


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Here is the register that feeds the cabin
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I’m hoping to run another duct up to the dash on the port side but not sure what to use. Output temperature is about 130-160F. I don’t want to use a flex duct because I’m certain it will get bumped and damaged. I’d like to use PVC pipe due to its rigidity but the output temp exceeds the recommendations for PVC pipe.


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Brent":13lakns1 said:
Run.duct in.cabin bilge to helm seat seat base???

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Not a bad idea but the way my cabin is configured I’m not able to do that without some invasive cutting


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I have the same double hatches in the floor of the pilot house as on your vessel. Inside is another hatch to access the bilge pump. The passenger compartment “floor” is totally sealed off so no access thru there. I’m trying to keep the heat runs fairly short as well for heat loss.


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My rough draft for my electrical plans and battery relocation planned for this spring. I have the Blue seas ACR system already so I’m going to use that. The two house batteries are going to be isolated with a Perko battery switch that I have. Only parts I will need is more tinned wire and some circuit breakers.
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The ACR switch is the battery on/off switch. Any thoughts on the electrical plan?


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An update on my heater install. I need to order a longer section of exhaust pipe and exhaust wrap to insulate it. The supplied fuel line was plastic and I’m replacing it with 3/16” copper brake line. I had some time this weekend and made a mounting bracket for the fuel tank as well.I need to do some detail work on the bracket still and route the fuel line. Please overlook the welding on my heater bracket. My TIG welder is not setup for welding aluminum so I had to arc weld it and that’s a test in patience.I wanted to use stainless steel but I had the aluminum so I opted to save the $.
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My plan is to relocate the batteries to the area just in front of the bilge access hatch. I intend to upgrade to AGM batteries but not sure if the budget will allow that this season. I’ve heard that the off gassing from a standard battery can be dangerous. Since this area is sealed (non vented) would I be all right using my current batteries for a season or should I wait until I purchase new ones before relocating. Any help/advice is always appreciated.
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Brent":3kjmaqrb said:
Is it necessary to move the start battery? I can see the need for the house.


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It’s not necessary but due to my heavy stern I’m trying to move as much weight as possible forward. If this does not help I’m going to look at fabricating tanks to increase buoyancy.


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