Common failure points for Bilge float switch? 2020 21 SE

[pelagic2530]

Not a glass tube and only 5amp. I think it is too small, but I'll cough up to fluke as it took 4 years to blow. Just performed normally on today's outing.

If it’s the correct size, and the holder is in good shape (no corrosion, etc.) then I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Also probably not worth converting to a breaker- the fuse does what it’s supposed to do, and in the case that you’re on the boat to reset the breaker if it trips, you’re also there to manually turn on the bilge pump. So switching to a breaker offers little benefit.

For what it’s worth, I’ve switched entirely to EasyID ATC fuses from Blue Sea Systems. They have a small LED in them that illuminates if the fuse blows. Makes it very easy to identify a blown fuse. They’re maybe a dollar more per fuse, but that equates to MAYBE $20 per boat, and in a good electrical system, they should never really blow. Well worth the money when it comes to quickly troubleshooting an issue. I use them on my boat and install them on all my customers’ systems.

 

[Gsully23]

Not a glass tube and only 5amp. I think it is too small, but I'll cough up to fluke as it took 4 years to blow. Just performed normally on today's outing.

On newer boats I usually chalk this up to a loose screw, cut zip tie, or glass fibers that found a way into the bilge finally.

Also anyone up north or where freezing Temps are during the winter, this is super common. Slushy/frozen bilge water and a triggered float do it everything. I get atleast 3-4 calls every spring that are due to popped fuses from a frozen bilge

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Manually trip the float switch by hand and I bet you it pumps at full force. I see it all the time on brand new boats. Your float is getting power directly from the battery and should have an inline 5-7.5 amp fuse.

Also, make sure your getting the full 12.5v at the bilge pump it self. Check to see what the voltage is with just the switch on, and than check to see what it is with the float "on".

The water flows at the same rate of speed whether I fill with water and let the lever work or I manually trip the switch by hand.

I can take a video when I go to the boat later to show you.

 

[Gsully23]

The water flows at the same rate of speed whether I fill with water and let the lever work or I manually trip the switch by hand.

I can take a video when I go to the boat later to show you.

OK than that's good. What size bilge? Started noticing alot of boats getting 500gph instead of 800gph due to shortages.

If you want to be sure, just connect a known good 12v and ground to the pump and see if it changes. That's the quickest, easiest way to ensure it works fine.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

OK than that's good. What size bilge? Started noticing alot of boats getting 500gph instead of 800gph due to shortages.

If you want to be sure, just connect a known good 12v and ground to the pump and see if it changes. That's the quickest, easiest way to ensure it works fine.

It’s an 1100 gph….

 

[Dleopoldi914]

I went to the boat and filled it up with water, float switch worked.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

Here it is

 

[Bodick93]

I have a green wire that goes to battery 2, coming from under the deck, directly behind console and a second black one with fuse coming from side loom side to battery 1. I think the black wire is the float power. Green could be electronics memory perhaps.

That MAY be the fuel tank ground wire. I have a green wire that goes to the fuel tank. Come to think of it, I had assumed it was a bonding wire and not part of a circuit. I need to look again.

 

[tomc585]

Green wire is earth ground. Should be bonding the fuel tank and the fuel filler neck to ground.

 

[pelagic2530]

Here it is

That doesn’t look like an unreasonable flow from that size thru-hull with an 1100gph pump. Remember, 1100gph is the pump’s MAX rating, measured at the pump discharge, with 12.6v. If you’ve got a long discharge hose, especially one that’s corrugated on the inside, that discharges a good distance above the pump, and possibly undersized wiring or wiring in less than perfect condition, you’re going to see a significant decrease in pumping performance.

 

[Double Hall]

Green wire is earth ground. Should be bonding the fuel tank and the fuel filler neck to ground.

It is zip tied along the red battery cable in factory loom. I've had it attached to the positive terminal for years... And haven't seen ill effects yet. How the heck do I test for THIS?

 

[tomc585]

It's possible someone "repurposed" that oem ground wire to feed something else or mistakenly attached it to the positive side of the battery when work was done.
You should remove it at the battery and determine where the other end is. LIke I said, it was originally a bonding wire for the fuel tank and filler neck, look there for the other end(s).

 

[Double Hall]

It's possible someone "repurposed" that oem ground wire to feed something else or mistakenly attached it to the positive side of the battery when work was done.
You should remove it at the battery and determine where the other end is. LIke I said, it was originally a bonding wire for the fuel tank and filler neck, look there for the other end(s).

I am the original owner and likely forgot and incorrectly reattached one season. I'll test and swap back.

 

[pelagic2530]

I am the original owner and likely forgot and incorrectly reattached one season. I'll test and swap back.

Yeah, you should definitely figure this one out. If it’s still attached to the tank, you ABSOLUTELY do not want to be connecting your tank to DC positive. Regardless, unless it’s fused within about 7” of the connection to the battery, you don’t want that connected to power.

 

[Double Hall]

Yeah, you should definitely figure this one out. If it’s still attached to the tank, you ABSOLUTELY do not want to be connecting your tank to DC positive. Regardless, unless it’s fused within about 7” of the connection to the battery, you don’t want that connected to power.

Time to play the lottery I guess.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

That doesn’t look like an unreasonable flow from that size thru-hull with an 1100gph pump. Remember, 1100gph is the pump’s MAX rating, measured at the pump discharge, with 12.6v. If you’ve got a long discharge hose, especially one that’s corrugated on the inside, that discharges a good distance above the pump, and possibly undersized wiring or wiring in less than perfect condition, you’re going to see a significant decrease in pumping performance.

No it works ok I think….

 

[Bodick93]

No it works ok I think….

On THT a while back, someone had weak flow from the bilge pump, and someone else suggested a backflush with the garden hose. It then blew a ton of grunge out. So much that IDK how it could have gotten through the screen.
I'm checking mine today for flow. I am guilty of just making sure they cut on automatically.

 

[tomc585]

Pet and human hair work wonders on bilge pumps