Fuel level sensor unit tube length 2120???

[uglyducky]

Can anyone tell the the correct tube length for a fuel sensor unit from a 2003 2120

 

[tomc585]

Pull the sensor and measure old sensor and tank to verify the correct one was used. Some are installed/replaced with a shorter one either because its what was available at the time or they wanted a "reserve" when on empty.

 

[warthog5]

Replace it with a Moellar Reed Style after you put witness marks on tank and sender to remove old sender.....Measure tank depth then acquire the correct depth sender.

http://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-accessories/fuel-senders-gauges/reed-style/

 

[uglyducky]

Thanks all. Problem is the current sender is kinda stuck and I have to bring it in to get it removed. The screws were loosened but just spin now and won’t come out. Almost as though (not saying this is the case) a nut was welded on the underside and the weld broke. Very strange.

so I was hoping to get factory tube length to preemptively order the part so I don’t lose time on the fishing season.

 

[PastTheBarb]

With the reed style Moeller sending unit do I need to buy a new matched gauge?

 

[warthog5]

No.....It has the correct ohm span......33 to 140.

The OEM will NOT be a Reed style.....It will be a float arm.....They wear the potenometer part out due to bouncing.

What you have is a over tightened at one time and thus has slightly stripped the fastner. There is no nut...The alum is drilled and tapped....It's a crapy design due to the 1/8in tank thickness.

There is a repair panel available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-366lp-f
But this is the one I'd buy. Note that it is a thicker flange and thus has better thread perchace.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3263

 

[uglyducky]

No.....It has the correct ohm span......33 to 140.

The OEM will NOT be a Reed style.....It will be a float arm.....They wear the potenometer part out due to bouncing.

What you have is a over tightened at one time and thus has slightly stripped the fastner. There is no nut...The alum is drilled and tapped....It's a crapy design due to the 1/8in tank thickness.

There is a repair panel available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-366lp-f
But this is the one I'd buy. Note that it is a thicker flange and thus has better thread perchace.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3263

Ty sir. It was a mess coming out finally. 13.5” if anyone is Interested. I’ll order that repair panel.

 

[warthog5]

1st time I've ever seen Nut-Serts installed in a tank. You will need that adapter /repair panel.

 

[tomc585]

1st time I've ever seen Nut-Serts installed in a tank. You will need that adapter /repair panel.

Probably a repair effort from the past

 

[tomc585]

Ty sir. It was a mess coming out finally. 13.5” if anyone is Interested. I’ll order that repair panel.

Kuddos for not giving up!

 

[capecodparker2320]

When I replaced my fuel sender last year I also had the same problem with the Nutserts spinning. Took quite an effort to get old sender out. Anyway I purchased a new Moeller sender and got some longer screws which I fed into the screw holes from center hole inside the tank and up. The holes in the gasket were undersized so they held the screws in place, put the gauge into the tank very carefully, attached the nuts to the screws and if necessary used pliers to prevent the tip of the screws from rotating while tightening. According to my notes, tank depth was 13", and the fuel gauge was 12" long so I went with same (2002 2320).
Years ago, as a design engineer, I removed Nutserts from many existing products that I supported and replaced them with PEM inserts because we saw the same problem of spinning inserts on our products that required service.

 

[tomc585]

Easier fix would be to turn the sending unit a few degrees and drill new pilot holes. The gasket would seal up the old holes.

 

[warthog5]

Easier fix would be to turn the sending unit a few degrees and drill new pilot holes.

Have you ever actually done that?

The 5 holes are Not evenly spaced......There is a offset one...It's that way so a swing arm style sender's arm does not hit the side of the tank......It only fits ONE way. With the Reed style it doesn't matter. But there is not really enough meat there to do that.

I already posted the FIX above.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3263

 

[tomc585]

I like the adapter you posted. I was just sharing a simple fix that wouldn't cost anything and required the same amount of machining/labor.
I would never replace the swing arm style even if it was still working with other than a reed style so rotating the sender in either direction isnt a big deal. As long as the tanks material is in sound condition this works fine. Using the new sender as a template will ensure the offset holes are correctly drilled.
If using the gasket as a template you need to be sure its not upside down reversing the bolt pattern.

 

[capecodparker2320]

Drilling and tapping into .125" thick 5052 aluminum is very risky. For the fuel sender it will be necessary to drill and tap freehand unless you have a drilling jig that assures a perfect perpendicular hole and threads. Just simply is not enough thickness of aluminum to provide a sufficient number of threads to even compress a gasket. The general rule of thumb for minimum thread depth is 1.5 x screw diameter for steel and 2x for aluminum. The nutserts were used because the aluminum is too thin for threads even to only compress a gasket. A more costly and better solution would have been to weld a threaded flange to the inside of the top tank plate during initial fabrication.

 

[tomc585]

I agree, there is always a better way but boat manufacturers (and suppliers) cut corners. My tank (1801) just had self tapping machine screws into the tank which explains why they need to be checked every seaon at the least.

 

[2003Parker2120SC]

No.....It has the correct ohm span......33 to 140.

The OEM will NOT be a Reed style.....It will be a float arm.....They wear the potenometer part out due to bouncing.

What you have is a over tightened at one time and thus has slightly stripped the fastner. There is no nut...The alum is drilled and tapped....It's a crapy design due to the 1/8in tank thickness.

There is a repair panel available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-366lp-f
But this is the one I'd buy. Note that it is a thicker flange and thus has better thread perchace.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3263

Just for accuracy the correct ohm span is 33-240. Not seen any that go from 33-140.ohm.