Navigation Lights with Trolling Motor on 1801

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reellucky18

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Folks with the 1801 AND have a trolling motor mounted, what have you changed or implemented so that your bow mounted nav lights (red/green) are visible to both port & starboard? Currently my trolling motor is mounted so that the prop will drop in the port side, however when stowed, the prop itself covers the port side of the nav light. Meaning while navigating at night, you will only be able to see me either coming straight, or if you happen to be on my starboard side, nothing from the port (besides the stern light of course).

Any ideas? I have seen (online) the attwood 10" LED pole light, which might be an option, however I wanted to see if anyone else who has this issue has come up with something else?
 
in my install i removed the current nav light, filled the hole, and plan to install side mounted Taco nav lights through the sidewall of the bow cap. I think there was another individual on Classic Parker that did the same and they look good.
 
Two options. Move your lights to the side of the hull. Not a really great choice. Or put them a stem. That's what I did. The only hard part is getting to the wires inside the anchor locker.... View attachment 32150
Thanks for the pic. What you have is likely what I will go with.
Do you trailer it with that light like that, or do you pull/store & launch when needed?
Also, i am guessing that is a 10" pole? Attwood make/model?
 
Thanks for the pic. What you have is likely what I will go with.
Do you trailer it with that light like that, or do you pull/store & launch when needed?
Also, i am guessing that is a 10" pole? Attwood make/model?

That is a 10" pole. I think Atwood but not sure without looking. I very seldom run at night, so it normally lives inside a locker.
 
I Agree with Inshore Chaser, Taco side lights. Bright, low profile, easy to install, never have to touch again. I think they go quite well with the 1800's.
 
Taco lights mounted on the side of the cap. Very easy install...but the lights are a bit pricey $100+. They are very high quality....
As far as the flush mounted lights go, I’m curious… have any of you guys measured the luminous arc of those lights after you install them? They need to be 112.5 degrees abaft the centerline as relative to the boat, as opposed to the light fixture itself. Depending on the curvature of the bow area where you install them, I could see that arc being significantly diminished as they would tend to be “toed in” toward each other. Does the install take that into account?
 
Yeah the instructions are pretty clear about that. Mine has a small area of overlap from a distance. It's a function of the light having a fixed angle to the mounting plate and having to mount it on a continuously curved surface. I made a pattern and tried it all over before drilling the holes, but it's a lot of trial and error. And once you drill the holes your done. Finally, you don't see how you did till dark! After install I've become more aware that even some factory installs on other brand boats have that overlap also.
 
Thanks for the pic. What you have is likely what I will go with.
Do you trailer it with that light like that, or do you pull/store & launch when needed?
Also, i am guessing that is a 10" pole? Attwood make/model?


You do know that those pole lights are the worst lights you can put on a boat...Right?

Cheap connectors that work well.......Until YOU need them to work. :(

Yea boat manufactures have been using them for decades....Why? Because of the bean counters.
 
You do know that those pole lights are the worst lights you can put on a boat...Right?

Cheap connectors that work well.......Until YOU need them to work. :(

Yea boat manufactures have been using them for decades....Why? Because of the bean counters.
Cool. Any suggestions then? Or are you just here to throw up on this post?
 
Cool. Any suggestions then? Or are you just here to throw up on this post?
Your best bet is probably to go with the side mount ones. I’ll agree with warthog’s assessment that the socket ones tend to be crap. Some people get lucky with them, but I’ve replaced quite a few of those sockets on my own and other peoples boats. Why none of the manufacturers can come up with a truly waterproof, robust design is totally beyond me.

Do you have any pictures of your install and current nav light setup? How obstructed are your lights? I measured mine and from the source of the light, I’m barely obstructed if at all. I’d be curious to see how yours differs.
 
Your best bet is probably to go with the side mount ones. I’ll agree with warthog’s assessment that the socket ones tend to be crap. Some people get lucky with them, but I’ve replaced quite a few of those sockets on my own and other peoples boats. Why none of the manufacturers can come up with a truly waterproof, robust design is totally beyond me.

Do you have any pictures of your install and current nav light setup? How obstructed are your lights? I measured mine and from the source of the light, I’m barely obstructed if at all. I’d be curious to see how yours differs.
My boat is currently in the shop so I cannot get a port side shot, however you should be able to quickly see and determine via the attached that it will be almost impossible to see that portside (red) light at night time. I will take a look at the side mounted ones as well. I do have a few friends with pole mounted nav lights & neither have issues, and maybe that is they don't have issues yet. But that is why I am here to see what others have done. Thanks for your response. Much appreciated.
 

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My boat is currently in the shop so I cannot get a port side shot, however you should be able to quickly see and determine via the attached that it will be almost impossible to see that portside (red) light at night time. I will take a look at the side mounted ones as well. I do have a few friends with pole mounted nav lights & neither have issues, and maybe that is they don't have issues yet. But that is why I am here to see what others have done. Thanks for your response. Much appreciated.
Yup. I see what you’re saying.
Your other option could be the low profile individual red/green lights, mounted further back on your covering boards on each side. Nothing says they have to be up at the tip of the bow as long as the arc of visibility is correct.
 
Cool. Any suggestions then?

I've installed Shark Eyes in several.....You have to cut the Hull...Some will not like doing that and be scared....I'm not scared. :) Another thing about Shark Eyes.....The gaskets they include are never thick enough....You must make new ones out of thicker rubber.
The edges of the stainless will bite into the gellcoat and not seal correctly if you don't.


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Luckly when you mount the trolling motor as far back as I did you don’t have to do anything with the factory light
 
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