Replacing Factory Batteries

[J876]

Hello,
I have a 2020 Parker 2520 XL with single yamaha F300. The boat came with two Deka Marine Master "Starting High Reserve Capacity" batteries (27M6). Recently the batteries died (not down to exactly zero, the windshield wiper still turned on very slowly but nothing else). Someone getting the boat ready for the season probably left one of the electronics on. I got it jumped and it runs and restarts now at the dock but I'm certain the life expectancy has been shortened so I'm looking to purchase two new batteries.

Since these batteries came with the boat I'm inclined to just replace them with the same make and model but I'm reading that some people have a deep cycle battery and a starting battery. I have a fishfinder/sonar/GPS which is left on the entire trip whether the engine is running or not. Marine radio is left on all trip as well. There is an AM/FM radio which is occasionally on. Radar is only up and running when we're riding, always off if the engines are off. Usually make drifts for fluke with the engine off that could be as long as 30 minutes. In spring and fall we're anchored up for wreck fishing and that could be for hours at a time with the aforementioned electronics running and engines off. The original batteries worked fine in the past two years and I never had any issues starting or running the boat but I'm not sure if they're ideal?

What does everyone recommend? Two starting batteries? One starting and one deep cycle? Or two dual purpose batteries? Excuse my ignorance on the topic as I've never had to replace a boat battery believe it or not.

 

[warthog5]

In order to take full benefit of a Start & House battery...You Must have a BEP Cluster switch. Why is that?
Because you probably have a Perko OFF,1,2,ALL . Yes?

What ever position you select with a Perko serves Both Starting and all House loads.

With a BEP....The Start switch goes to the starting battery and is dedicated to starting the engine. The House switch is dedicated to all the House circuits. [Electronics, lighting and pumps]

If you want to know more on this subject... Search BEP.......I have written extensively on the subject and have personally installed 53 of them.

 

[knotflying]

Over the years my observation has been that no matter what battery type you get the failure is usually user related. Your situation is not a surprise. I cruised for 10 years on a trawler. I always bought Walmart dual purpose deep cycle. For $90.00 each with a one year warranty you can't go wrong. I would replace them every three years regardless of condition and never had an issue. I would rather blow a $90.00 battery than a $200,00 plus AGM. Believe me, I have seen many an owner accidentally destroy and AGM.

 

[pelagic2530]

Hello,
I have a 2020 Parker 2520 XL with single yamaha F300. The boat came with two Deka Marine Master "Starting High Reserve Capacity" batteries (27M6). Recently the batteries died (not down to exactly zero, the windshield wiper still turned on very slowly but nothing else). Someone getting the boat ready for the season probably left one of the electronics on. I got it jumped and it runs and restarts now at the dock but I'm certain the life expectancy has been shortened so I'm looking to purchase two new batteries.

Since these batteries came with the boat I'm inclined to just replace them with the same make and model but I'm reading that some people have a deep cycle battery and a starting battery. I have a fishfinder/sonar/GPS which is left on the entire trip whether the engine is running or not. Marine radio is left on all trip as well. There is an AM/FM radio which is occasionally on. Radar is only up and running when we're riding, always off if the engines are off. Usually make drifts for fluke with the engine off that could be as long as 30 minutes. In spring and fall we're anchored up for wreck fishing and that could be for hours at a time with the aforementioned electronics running and engines off. The original batteries worked fine in the past two years and I never had any issues starting or running the boat but I'm not sure if they're ideal?

What does everyone recommend? Two starting batteries? One starting and one deep cycle? Or two dual purpose batteries? Excuse my ignorance on the topic as I've never had to replace a boat battery believe it or not.

If you’re going to keep the stock electrical system, get two dual purpose AGMs. If you’re going to upgrade to the BEP switch as Warthog describes, which is the correct way to go and an easy upgrade, you’ll want one cranking battery sized appropriately as per your engine MFR (likely a gp27) and one deep cycle battery sized appropriately for your electrical load (unless you’re running anything with a large electrical load, gp27 or 31 is probably fine, but it’s worth doing a load calculation).

Either way, I’d still go with AGMs. They hold a charge for a lot longer, so if you’re running into the problem of your batteries sitting for awhile, you stand a better chance of them holding up than with a tradition flooded lead acid battery.

Whatever you decide, look into installing a modern, computer controlled battery charger/maintainer if you have the ability to run an extension cord to the boat and leave it plugged in all the time. This will keep your batteries in fully charged condition without the risk of “cooking” them that was present with the old style of battery chargers.

 

[pelagic2530]

Over the years my observation has been that no matter what battery type you get the failure is usually user related. Your situation is not a surprise. I cruised for 10 years on a trawler. I always bought Walmart dual purpose deep cycle. For $90.00 each with a one year warranty you can't go wrong. I would replace them every three years regardless of condition and never had an issue. I would rather blow a $90.00 battery than a $200,00 plus AGM. Believe me, I have seen many an owner accidentally destroy and AGM.

The new AGMs are surprisingly difficult to destroy, actually. Keep them charged using a computer-controlled charger and they’re pretty happy. I have Lifelines that will hold a charge for months without upkeep. Not recommended, but unless you have a parasitic draw they’re pretty robust.

 

[StrayDog]

The new AGMs are surprisingly difficult to destroy, actually. Keep them charged using a computer-controlled charger and they’re pretty happy. I have Lifelines that will hold a charge for months without upkeep. Not recommended, but unless you have a parasitic draw they’re pretty robust.

I will b adding a BEP cluster (twin engine, 3 bank) and replacing my batteries I currently carry 4 gp27, 2 cranking (1 for each engine), 2 combined function (House), all are 12 volt flooded acid.

I plan to change house batteries to AGM gp31 deep cycle. I run my bait tank all constantly on House batts.

Question 1: For my House am I better off building the House Bank with 2- 6volt AGM in series, or 2-12volt AGM in parallel?

Question 2: For my 2 Start Banks are there AGM batteries you would recommend? I would like to get rid of all flooded batteries. Engines are Etec G2 225 H.O.

Thanks in advance for reading and all time spent answering questions.
Mike

 

[captmatt]

I have gotten very good service life from Deka marine flooded batteries. I replace them at five year intervals but have never had one fail, yet. The one time I tried a Sears marine AGM the batteries did not last a year and I had two warranty replacements before I gave up.

I suggest one start battery per engine and one house. Then install a VSR battery combiner, or at least run the aux charging lead from one motor to the house battery.

 

[pcleano]

Your F300 Yamaha already has an isolator built into it. Add the wire harness option and that will charge your second battery without having the change or add anything to your switches. The usual way to do it is to wire it to the #2 post on the back of the battery switch. That way it is always connected and you are not adding any additional wires to your battery terminals.

 

[2801 Parker]

Does anyone have any feedback on the Dakota Lithium batteries that have an eleven year warranty?

 

[warthog5]

Your F300 Yamaha already has an isolator built into it. Add the wire harness option and that will charge your second battery without having the change or add anything to your switches. The usual way to do it is to wire it to the #2 post on the back of the battery switch. That way it is always connected and you are not adding any additional wires to your battery terminals.

While this Will charge the 2nd battery, Figuring that your Perko is on Position 1.......It will Not give you a dedicated "House" battery....... As what every position a Perko switch is in.... That battery controls ALL function Start & House at the same time.

 

[Bodick93]

Another bonus of AGMs is they offgas less when charging, which minimizes the corrosive environment, if in the console.
I had my trolling batteries in the console of my Seapro, and they ate my charger into oblivion. Probably less of a concern in the bilge.