Strange gelcoat problem unveiled

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Longislandfish

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In the process of removing ablative bottom paint on my 2004 Parker 1801 and have discovered a strange issue with the gelcoat almost like divots where the top of the scum line under ablative paint appeared as I carefully wet sanded through. I took an area up from 240-1200 then quickly cut it to polish put residual scratches. Mirror finish and color is well matched.

I’m puzzled as it almost looks like a factory defect or some bizzare repair. It’s exactly where the top of the bottom is.

I messed with the exposure on the photo so that you can see the void. Any way I can correct this or is this a problem that is not worth fixing ?

thanks
 

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The pictures are difficult to understand. In the first picture are you talking about the black lines that are behind the hose in the second picture? The wave in the second picture looks like a reflection of your curbing. If the defect you're talking about is missing gel coat, it is most likely blistering from sitting in the water above the bottom paint and yes you should repair it.
 
Looking at your other post about removing the bottom paint I think I understand what happened. The previous owner added multiple coats of bottom paint and sanded in-between. It looks like they went a little too far and got into the gel coat instead of taping it off. It can be fixed by filling with new gel coat and sanding flush. Cecil Marine in NJ sells Parker matched gel coat by the mason jar. You just need to add hardener.
 
I really appreciate your insight, it’s definitely a void And noticeable to the naked eye. How should I go about filling it? Should I used a filler? Or can I used straight gelcoat with harder and overfill and sand even? I know how to sand and correct finishes, just never worked with gelcoat and adding move to a previous finish.
do I need to grind this area out and build it up? Or can I scuff it up with 220 clean and decontaminate the tape it off and brush the gel coat on or spray it with a prevail then blend it all in?

this for sure is gonna bother me so I’d rather correct it and do it right.

any experts with knowledge on how to finish and correct this im all ears.

appreciated

LIF
 
Depending on how deep you can fill in layers. Think more like building the surface back up than filling a dry wall crack with mud. I would start with 400-600 grit sandpaper just to scruff the surface. Clean with acetone. Mix a small amount of gel coat and apply. After it hardens use 800 grit on a block to fair each layer and wipe with acetone. When it is built back up use 1000 grit on a block to finish. Then compound, polish and wax.
 
Perfect! What’s the best way to apply the gelcoat to the areas? It appears that the damage runs entire length of the water line. Should I tape off above and below void fill in layers then fair it back?

Will gelcoat adhere to the existing gelcoat with just scuffing with 320-400grit?
What is the best way to keep air away from the gelcoat so that it can completely harden? I have seen posts that mention clear tape or wax paper.
Is pva easier to use and just apply over?
Is the gelcoat from Cecile a perfect match?
 
What do you intend for final finish
Gel cote or bottom paint

if the boat is going to be stored in the water do repairs with epoxy and do not worry about gel cote

Gel Cote does not like being immersed in water

If it is all trailer sailing you can do a gel cote repair but be aware that it will most likely come of if the boat is left in water for a while
 
What do you intend for final finish
Gel cote or bottom paint

if the boat is going to be stored in the water do repairs with epoxy and do not worry about gel cote

Gel Cote does not like being immersed in water

If it is all trailer sailing you can do a gel cote repair but be aware that it will most likely come of if the boat is left in water for a while

boat will be stored on trailer, will not be adding bottom paint ever again. Was hoping for a permanent solution and fix
I have a bottle of the gelcoat I purchased in the spring if you want to try it.
It'll probably go bad by the time i use it all. Its a perfect match on my 2004
I have a bottle of the gelcoat I purchased in the spring if you want to try it.
It'll probably go bad by the time i use it all. Its a perfect match on my 2004
 

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I have a bottle of the gelcoat I purchased in the spring if you want to try it.
It'll probably go bad by the time i use it all. Its a perfect match on my 2004
I really appreciate that man, I will be happy to try it if you aren’t going to be able to use it. Thank you sir
 
Perfect! What’s the best way to apply the gelcoat to the areas? It appears that the damage runs entire length of the water line. Should I tape off above and below void fill in layers then fair it back?

Will gelcoat adhere to the existing gelcoat with just scuffing with 320-400grit?
What is the best way to keep air away from the gelcoat so that it can completely harden? I have seen posts that mention clear tape or wax paper.
Is pva easier to use and just apply over?
Is the gelcoat from Cecile a perfect match?

Tape, apply in layers. Determine if the gelcoat you’re getting has wax in it or not- if it does, it will cure without any covering but the wax coating that rises to the top (thereby sealing out the oxygen and creating the environment for it to cure) will need to be cleaned off between coats. If it does not, you will need to either spray a coat of wax over each layer of gelcoat, or seal over it with plastic wrap or something similar so that it will cure. I recommend just using the waxed stuff.

As far as color match, the stuff from Cecil is a perfect match for my 95 and 97.
 
Tape, apply in layers. Determine if the gelcoat you’re getting has wax in it or not- if it does, it will cure without any covering but the wax coating that rises to the top (thereby sealing out the oxygen and creating the environment for it to cure) will need to be cleaned off between coats. If it does not, you will need to either spray a coat of wax over each layer of gelcoat, or seal over it with plastic wrap or something similar so that it will cure. I recommend just using the waxed stuff.

As far as color match, the stuff from Cecil is a perfect match for my 95 and 97.
That is my plan, to buy the Cecile gelcoat as many have said it has been an almost perfect match. Im assuming it’s prob best to buy the quart as I have to build the layers and god knows if the other side is the same, which I assume will be yes.

Should I brush it on let it sure sand with 320 then reapply ?

If you look at the picture I posted you can see the divots. Wondering how many millimeters of gelcoat will be required here.

never worked with gelcoat hopefully it’s forgiving, I don’t think I can make it worse, but I certainly can’t leave it like that. It’s gonna drive me nuts

Thank you for the information.
 
Start in a small area and go through the process a couple times. You will learn alot by doing small areas and then progress to the larger job at hand. You'll learn how much to apply, how it builds and how to finish.
 
Perfect! What’s the best way to apply the gelcoat to the areas? It appears that the damage runs entire length of the water line. Should I tape off above and below void fill in layers then fair it back?

Will gelcoat adhere to the existing gelcoat with just scuffing with 320-400grit?
What is the best way to keep air away from the gelcoat so that it can completely harden? I have seen posts that mention clear tape or wax paper.
Is pva easier to use and just apply over?
Is the gelcoat from Cecile a perfect match?

Taping off the area keeps the mess to a minimum, so it's a good idea. Make small batches and use small (4-5") mixing sticks, like they have at West Marine, to dab it into the defect. Don't use too much because it will sag. The new gel coat will adhere to the old if it is cleaned properly. Waxed gel is A LOT easier to work with, you just have to make sure you clean it well before the next coat. The gel coat from Cecil is and exact match. They have both colors Parker has used.

I wish I had taken a "before" picture; but, there was an inclusion about the size of a nickel that popped in the corner of my hatch frame for the berth. It was the closest corner in the picture. It made my type A personality go crazy because it's right in front of me at the helm. As you can see by the "after" picture, you can never tell it was there. It took three coats of Cecil Marine gel coat. 65636283231__2AF11436-DEAA-46DB-A07B-C76A3A0D798F.JPG
 
Wow beautiful repair! I appreciate your detailed response and help here. TomC585 has generously offered to donate some left over gel coat that he no longer needs, I will start with that by filling areas that need work before stepping up to the big defects.

paint removal going decent, wet sanding and power washing. 6 hours total on the removal

I have to figure a way to get this boat on jacks and off trailer safely next !!!

thank you for your help brother

stephen
 

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Might need your guidance on the correct procedure to get that accomplished. I wonder if I put plywood down over the gravel it will be okay and distribute the load
 
The gravel will hold it. When I get a chance I'll post a picture of mine on blocks.
Lowering the trailer jack will raise the rear of the boat, then you block the stern and raise the trailer jack and it will lift off the trailer.
If you want to pull the trailer out from under you just support the boat with a jack in between the trailers cross rails and roll it forward, support, reposition jack, roll again etc. Theres videos on ytube.
 
Any advice on how to fill and re gelcoat a few small screw holes in the transom? I also want to remove the swim platform and seal the holes in transom and fill with gel coat. Any idea what products are compatible with gelcoat, I know marine Tex and epoxy based resins are not compatible ?
 
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