Trolling motor for 1801?

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GaryS

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Brogue, PA & Fenwick, DE
How about some recommendations for a good bow mount trolling motor for the new 1801 I intend to buy. My fishing buddy has one on an aluminum boat that he fishes with and tells me I need one with spot lock and I'd also like power retract/stow. So what brands, thrust, voltage, shaft length, etc? Can it be installed with the low split bow rail? What else do I need to know?
 
On an 1801 that I owned in the past..?it had the low split rails. The biggest challenge is locating the TM so the anchor locker is still operable when the TM is stowed or deployed. The nav lights most likely have to be relocated.
 

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Any 24v, 60”, 80lb gps equipped trolling motor from the major brands will suit you fine. I have a MK Riptide Terrova. My thought process and installation are documented here: 1997 1700 Overhaul Project

I’d recommend staying away from the self deploying models. The self deploy mechanism has a tendency to break, trapping the motor in either the stowed or (much more inconveniently) deployed position, and it’s apparently pretty difficult to bypass. The 1801 has plenty of access to the bow area such that deploying the motor by hand is no trouble at all. I’d much rather save the money on the self-deploy model, stick with the simple manual deploy method, and put the savings towards the install process.
 
I’d recommend staying away from the self deploying models.
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Absolutely! There are horror stories....They partially retract and then stuck....

My $$$ goes to Rodan.... A 18ftr will be fine with a 24V unit.
 
Since my boat will be moored in a canal with me being away for several weeks at a time are most/all of the TMs easily removable for storage?
 
GaryS said:
Since my boat will be moored in a canal with me being away for several weeks at a time are most/all of the TMs easily removable for storage?
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I believe all manufacturers offer a quick release mounting option. I know MK does.

They’re a bit bulky and awkward to carry, but otherwise easy to mount/unmount and move around.
 
Can someone comment on the decision between 60” and 72”. In the LIS there is so much chop from wind and boat traffic that I suspect the motor might be popping out pretty often
 
freshwater12 said:
Can someone comment on the decision between 60” and 72”. In the LIS there is so much chop from wind and boat traffic that I suspect the motor might be popping out pretty often
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You’re not going to go wrong with a longer shaft, other than it being pretty annoying to stow aboard. The bow on my 1700 is a little lower than an 1801, but the only times I’ve had the 60” TM cavitate have been as a result of a big boat wake or something. If it was consistently cavitating I doubt the conditions would be otherwise fishable.
 
In reading reviews it seems some of the reliability issues were with pre 2017 Ulteras and after that there are love/hate reports. I need to look at a few models, I will often be by myself and while my arms still work well my knees and lower legs are wore out, if the boat has the raised front area it would be difficult for me to stand there but without that I could probably handle it. Decisions, decisions!
 
Bought my Ulterra in Sept. of 2020, received in April of 2021 and have had no issues at all. Didn't like the thought of reaching out across the bow platform to manually lift the TM, it seemed like a 4am back injury waiting to happen, so I went with the auto deploy. I called MK before buying and asked about all the issues people we're having, and they assured me that they redesigned some parts moving forward. So far, so good! I hope I didn't just jinx myself... :unsure:
 
Puck-n-Fish said:
Didn't like the thought of reaching out across the bow platform to manually lift the TM, it seemed like a 4am back injury waiting to happen, so I went with the auto deploy.
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I know I mentioned it in another thread I'm now in my 70s and things just aren't the same as 20-30 years ago and unfortunately they won't likely get better so I want to keep things as easy on this old bod as I can.
 
Just adding to the mix here, I have a MotorGuide Xi5 80lb 24v which works perfectly for my needs. It came with the boat & works as designed. It can even work on 12v if you happen to accidently wire your batteries incorrectly (this is not advised, was only by mistake & found pretty quickly with my battery indicator on the trolling motor showing as red constantly. :)).
I like my MotorGuide because it integrates with my Lowrance HDS 12. I can control, steer, set a route, spot lock, etc. all with my Lowrance. It is a preference thing because I personally hate having a remote on a lanyard around my neck or elsewhere. It gets in the way of casting & should I happen to slip, fall over, etc, that thing can get caught on something then I now have a neck issue to worry about. :). Never happened to me at least, but it won't cause I don't use the remote.

As Inshore Chaser mentioned, Nav lights will also have to be relocated. I personally went with the Taco Marine Surface Mount LED Side Nav light & they work great. VERY bright for being a very small footprint. (Sorry I don't have a pic of that yet, but I will when I get my boat back later this month).
 

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Puck-n-Fish said:
I Agree 100% on this! Mine stays on the console tilted up, almost never around my neck. I believe they make mounts for some of these but I can't find one for the MK i-Pilot remote.
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One thing to be cautious about, along the same lines of using a motor kill switch or one of the new electronic proximity-sensing kill switches to stop the vessel’s engine if you fall overboard. Your trolling motor has the ability to either propel your boat (sometimes at a respectable speed) or keep it stationary in a moving current. If you were to fall overboard while using the trolling motor to move around, or fall into a current that your TM is stemming, you run the risk of the boat moving away from you/you moving away from the boat. It’s a much slower speed than when using the outboard, but even catching up to a boat that’s only moving 2kts is much harder than you’d think it would be. Most people aren’t going to be able to swim at 2kts for any significant amount of time, especially wearing heavy winter fishing gear, with an inflated life vest, in cold water, etc. If the remote is around your neck, you can at least stop the motor so that the boat will drift with you in the current; you might even be able to steer it back to come pick you up! If it’s sitting on the console, however, you’re not going to have that option.

I get not liking it around your neck, but having it in a pocket, or clipped to your life vest, might not be a bad idea.
 
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