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My bilge pump is all the way to the back. You have flat area all the way up into the battery platform if you want to put your pickup further up. I have a transudcer in that area too (all flush so can be in front of pickup scoops). All the fiddling around you are doing won't fix the problem, I...

Ok, well here are pics of what I did. I originally removed the port side raw water scoop out, but recently I put two tilted element flush CHIRP transducers which nominally went in the same area. I attached some pics. Hopefully you figure this out, it is annoying as hell.

I have a 2007 2510 deep vee and battled the port side cavitation issue for several years, even installing permatrims which helped but did not eliminate the cavitation. Finally I glassed over the raw water inlet directly inline with the engine (a huge Parker mistake) and installed a 1.5"...

Over the holidays, I started a large winter project to renew my 2007 Parker 2510 XLD “Hard Core”. I rigged her myself in Oregon, and then had it in Puerto Vallarta for 5 years catching huge tuna and marlin. I even won entry into the Bisbee’s on her, and ended up winning the Bisbee’s in 2010 with...

I don't know the size. I called the guy, told him my boat and engines, and they came with zero markings. They are quite large, probably adds a 9x9 section above the prop. If I'm really flying in chop, the props may catch a little air, but it is not sustained, and they hook up in 1/4 second, vs...

FYI, I installed Permatrims last week in PV on both engines, and cavitation issues are gone, plus I'm really happy with trim angle improvments the plates provide. I'm 99% sure it is due to the bait/washdown pickup being directly in line with the port engine. This was a mistake Parker made...

Photo of my bilge area facing aft.

I have the exact same issue with my '07 2510XLD with twin 150's, always the port engine, and always triggered by rough seas. I suspected my swim deck mounted 32g livewell, so I switched to the built in live well (also the same weight, but amidships), and the problem was dramatically reduced. I...

I installed a Weather Fax on my Furuno system, and couldn't get any reception without the earth ground. I ran a heavy gauge cable to a thru-hull. Granted not as good as a dyna-plate, but got the job done without putting more stuff on the hull. You won't need to worry about this for GPS, but for...

I mounted both of mine (Furuno and Simrad) on a piece of starboard polymer cut to fit on top of my holding tank, which is under the center deck access plate to the port of the helm. The starboard is screwed in there, easily removable, and the heading sensors connect to it. It's nice also...

Yep, I totally agree. What a nightmare. I had to connect two Icoms, one Simram to the Furuno NavNet, you end up splicing/soldering/heat shrinking wire. Thus the problem with a standard that is electrical/protocol only, they should have required a common connector. Make sure you put both the...

I took my Parker 'surfing' a couple weeks ago out of the Columbia River bar. I felt very comfortable in the boat powering up 10 foot rollers, then pulling the power back, and free falling (lose you stomach kind of stuff) into the face of the next roller. Of course, my passenger from Southern...

I wanted to get the last of the pre-Lowrance merger SIMRADs. After a long ordeal tracking down a SIMRAD AP26, I completed the installation in a couple of weekends. I think it turned out pretty good. A big thanks to Chris on this board (forget moniker) who pointed me to a good source of the...

Some photos of where I put my grand slams. Work great for me.

I don't have the exact model number off hand, but I picked up mine from Home Depot for just under $60. It will cut material up to an inch thick. I used the bits designed for wood. The dash on my 2510 XLD is 3/4 inch ply plus various amounts of glass. In the middle, it is largely just gelcoat...

I had painted myself into a corner in my dash to install the Simrad AP26 control head that just arrived. Even though I had saved a spot for it, I no longer had room to maneuver a jig saw in there. Also, as many of you know how heavy duty the construction is on these Parkers, I wasn't looking...

Wow, it has turned out to be quite a challenge to get ahold of a AP1603VF or a AP2620VF. Out of stock in most places due to the sale of Simrad and transition to replacement lines (AP24/28), which are of course unavailable also! If anyone has a lead on a store with either of the above kits...

Randy, Those pics are very helpful to me, I really appreciate it! I like how it's just tee'd off the wheel pump itself. Seems like the best way to do it. I did purchase the AP16VF03 kit, I have a shop locally that can custom make hydraulic lines, so I should be good to go. Will post pics after...

Hi Randy, Would love to see photos of your install, especially with regard to the pump and hydraulics. Not nagging, just expressing interest! I won't get to this for a few weeks, so no rush. Thanks!

I converted this to .JPG and then downsized it to meet the max res requirements, I'm not sure if it will be legible or not. The way regulators work is they are trying to source current to maintain a particular voltage, typically in the 13.5-14.0V range for 12VDC systems. Depending upon the...