Drain plug stuck, help

[pelagic2530]

Why wouldn’t bilge drain freeze in that scenario?

Because the water doesn’t stand in the bilge long enough to freeze, it just drains out.

Most common cause of frozen scuppers is wet snow collecting in the cockpit. It doesn’t drain out because it’s still snow. Come nightfall, it freezes, turning into an ice layer. The snow on top melts during the day, creating water, but the ice on the bottom is insulated by the snow on top. Eventually the water finds its way into the bilge, either by leaking though the bilge hatch (if it’s not also blocked by ice) or by leaking over the sill into the pilothouse and down the PH drain. At that point it’s water, and if the plug is out, it just drains out the back.

If the plug is IN, then yes, you’ll probably end up with frozen water in your bilge, which might not melt for a long time. You’ll also likely freeze up your bilge pump, float switch, and any other plumbing/transducers/anything else you have in your bilge. Left long enough, you’ll then get into water absorption into foam, stringers, etc. etc. It’s not a good time.

There’s literally no disadvantage to taking the plug out… it’s just good practice.

 

[John D.]

Who pays $10’s of thousands for a boat and lets snow collect in it? A properly supported tarp will solve this!

 

[Brent]

Post how you remove it.

 

[John D.]

Read the thread, I don’t!

 

[pelagic2530]

Who pays $10’s of thousands for a boat and lets snow collect in it? A properly supported tarp will solve this!

We’re going to keep doing this?

Tarps fail, tear, or blow away. Plenty of members here live remote from their boats: two, three, or more hours away isn’t uncommon. Others pay for storage in lots where access is limited.

Sh!t happens. Things break. Water has a funny way of getting where you don’t want it.

Cheap insurance. No downside to removing the plug. If the manufacturers didn’t think it was useful they wouldn’t install one.

You seem very dead set on not removing your plug, so this is mostly for the benefit of other members. I hope your method continues to work out well for you.

 

[John D.]

Merely pointing out another option/opinion! It’s how some people learn.

 

[baker]

[/QUOTE]
What Parker do you own and location?

 

[pelagic2530]

What Parker do you own and location?
[/QUOTE]
@baker, If this is quoting me, I have a 1700 that lives under a very good cover on a trailer in my driveway. It’s plug often does stay in when I’m using it frequently, as it doesn’t tend to collect any water under normal circumstances, I can check it frequently, and it’s one less thing to remember at the ramp. When I’m away for work for a long time, I’ll pull it out just in case.

I also have a 2530 that lives three hours away in DE. When it’s stored on land for the winter, it’s in my side yard, and there are several large trees nearby that like to drop leaves and needles around my yard. That plug comes out when the boat gets pulled, and lives on the dashboard right where I can see it until it’s time to launch in the spring.

 

[baker]

No pelagic, you have your boat/location info right there for all to see, like it should be. The question was for John D. Sometimes the way people do things on or for their boats is dependant on where the boat is located or what boat/motor they have, so when the conversation starts, seeing where they are and what boat they have, may answer a lot of simple questions, etc. and provides benefit to the conversation. Nevertheless, one line comments have their own limits, regardless of location/boat.

 

[John D.]

I was merely pointing out that for many there is no need to remove the plug. I learned this from the guy who built my first boat, and until I heard his knowledgeable opinion I wouldn’t have considered it. Sorry if that offends some who can’t see it any other way or have nothing left to learn.’

 

[camron]

I rounded off my drain plug one year using a junky wrench. As suggested before I used the pipe wrench and it came out with minimal effort. Sometime just needs a little more bite and leverage. Similar situation when I had the bottom blasted and the marina installed the plug.

 

[Brent]

Why not impact gun and easy on the trigger

 

[plumsal]

Try Teflon tape next time. You don’t need much. Many dealers use this trick as well.

 

[dstanl01]

Not sure if it an option but sometimes cutting a slot in the plug and using a heavy screw driver sideways gives a little extra leverage. Generally cutting the slot will create some heat that might help too.

 

[warthog5]

Because it would not have standing water with the plug removed.

 

[sailmaster]

Just leave it in. I’ve owned 4 trailerable boats and only on one did I ever remove the plug.

BAD BAD BAD
problem is when the boat gets full of rainwater and damaged
Pull the plug and etape it to the Port side transom eye ( our process ) or tape it to the winch handle on the trailer

 

[big_tuna]

thansk. You think I can get out the flange without bringing chunks of boat with me. any other ideas to get just the plug out without touching the flange?
Ya, i did the plug since new and first year someone else touches and this . Ya the plug is got rounded from a trial I suspect in trying to get it out.

rounded off? pics or it didn't happen...

 

[POGE]

The winner is …..
Remove 3 screws and replace the flange.

I did get a bigger wrench, and soaked plug in PBlaster best I could with the vertical. luckily before hulk power was used I stopped with the wrench.
‘real easy to remove the 3, 3/4” screws ( yes only 3/4” could be easy to rip the whole thing) and simply twisted out flange with said well round plug bolt.
It was nicely bedded in caulk from factory and transom wood is covered with gel coat.
cleaned the area and ready for install. Much,much less time than bolt wrestling any longer.
For giggles, I put the flange in a vise and soaked it each side of plug with PB, still didn’t not move. Lord know only knows what they did on the install.

Question Now: 4200 or 5200 for bedding caulk With the flange?

 

[big_tuna]

Both 4200 and 5200 have ripped gel coat off when I needed to remove, so pick your poison . I've started using life caulk or lifeseal after getting sick of doing gel coat repairs. Seems like caulk would be a good choice for your project too since you may be removing it AGAIN next winter hahhaha

 

[big_tuna]

Also, I don't think there is any wood in that location so no need to go crazy on the adhesive/sealants