Installing Lewmar Pro Fish 700

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shawnee83

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After many years of wanting to do this project, I’m finally getting around to it. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted or done a project so it’s good to be back on CP.
My first question to the group is on rode. I‘m thinking about going with 8 plait vs. 3 strand for the ability of it to fall better and get less tangles. That’s the concept anyway. Also, I‘m thinking about using a decent amount of chain and less rope. I was also thinking it would fall to the bottom better and less jams? Perhaps 80’ of chain and 125 of 8 plait. The majority of my anchoring is in under 10’ and backing into the beach. Adjusting for a tide and sometimes needing 100’. Offshore fishing AR’s that are typically around 40 to 60’ in depth.
1. Has anybody used a lot of chain?
2. Thoughts on the overall concept?
3. Thoughts on how many feet of each would fit/work In locker?

2nd Question is on Wiring.
1. After the Windless breaker, that will be mounted in starboard jump seat, I plan to connect it to the start battery position on my BEP Cluster so it will be switched. The negative straight to my start battery which is an Optima Blue top. Thoughts?

Thanks All.
JS
 
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After many years of wanting to do this project, I’m finally getting around to it. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted or done a project so it’s good to be back on CP.
My first question to the group is on rode. I‘m thinking about going with 8 plait vs. 3 strand for the ability of it to fall better and get less tangles. That’s the concept anyway. Also, I‘m thinking about using a decent amount of chain and less rope. I was also thinking it would fall to the bottom better and less jams? Perhaps 80’ of chain and 125 of 8 plait. The majority of my anchoring is in under 10’ and backing into the beach. Adjusting for a tide and sometimes needing 100’. Offshore fishing AR’s that are typically around 40 to 60’ in depth.
1. Has anybody used a lot of chain?
2. Thoughts on the overall concept?
3. Thoughts on how many feet of each would fit/work In locker?

2nd Question is on Wiring.
1. After the Windless breaker, that will be mounted in starboard jump seat, I plan to connect it to the start battery position on my BEP Cluster so it will be switched. The negative straight to my start battery which is an Optima Blue top. Thoughts?

Thanks All.
JS
After 17 seasons with the same Parker 2520 with a fully functional lewmar windlass on the bow the entire time. I’d recommend returning the windlass, leaving what’s currently on your bow intact and buying an anchor ball retrieval setup and a plastic tote and store the anchor in the cockpit. I understand the compulsion to put a windlass on the bow of a Parker pilot house is strong but the reality is they’re more trouble then they’re worth and once you get adept at using the ball, you’ll run circles around anyone using a windlass…..
 
At 40-60ft.... You will need 300ft.
I don't wire the windless as per what comes in the box....
I hate that momentary switch on the dash. As far as I'm concerned, it's almost useless... Spend the extra... Put a Remote on it...

I did not hook it right to the BEP switch..... I did hook it to the Start Battery and had it's own Breaker and Master switch separate.... Either would be fine, but the BEP may get a Lil crowed.

Look at page 14 https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/Lewmar-Support-Downloads/Product-Literature/Manual-T2388 Lewmar Pro Windlass Issue 3 WEB.pdf


I added the contactor and the 3 button Remote. I've done it to 2 boats.... I'd do exactly the same again.

The 700 FF [Free Fall] is what you want

Chain... Chain needed is 1/4in G4 or 1/4in BBB. You want the length of chain to be equal to the length of your boat.
 
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Be careful hooking it directly to the negative post on the battery. If yours is like 90% of the ones I’ve seen, you probably already have too many leads attached to the negative posts. ABYC regulations stipulate a maximum of four lugs per post. Any more than that, and you risk excessive resistance building up between the lugs on the terminal, which is exacerbated by any corrosion or crud buildup that may occur.

On almost all the boats that I work on, I now install a main negative bus bar with one connection to each battery negative; all engine, windlass, house and auxiliary negative connections go to that bus. Only negative connections at the batteries are one cable each to the bus, and a battery charger negative if one is equipped. Pretty easy upgrade and good to consider if you’re already going to be doing some new wiring.
 
Mpellet - thanks for your feedback. I completely understand the anchor ball concept with offshore anchoring. It’s a solid way to go. Last year I got offshore bottom fishing or fishing zero times, I’m a little ashamed to say. Currently I’m 99% backing into the backside of an island in 7 to 10 feet with a cross current and other boats many times, close on my sides. I’m just trying to eliminate my wife or solo me from having to do as much on the bow. The length of chain and rode is mostly a concern for having no jams on the windless. Also, what I can get away with size wise in the locker. Thanks for the idea and it may well be part of the solution as my offshore set up.

Warthog - yea the 40 to 60 using 200 ish is thin scope but if I’m offshore 3 to 1 fishing for a few is ok. If it’s that rough, I’m not out there anyway. Might be where a separate ball set up comes in? However, I want as much rode as I can fit without jams on my normal 50 to 80’ of beach parking. I did purchase the 700 with the free fall, hear ya on that. Got you on chain size also, I really want to use more chain….like 70/80’ or so though. I think it will function better on the Gypsy and maybe jam less. You’re a FLA guy, you know backing in on the bar or island, that’s 99% of what I do. Pos to BEP was a big question for me. You may not remember, but I have a 3000W pure sine wave inverter running AC and heat and that runs off that big AGM in my bilge all connected the the BEP on house side. I was a little concerned about running additional big surges through the BEP and if I should just go straight to the battery with the windless. It will have a 50A breaker shut off anyway. I was hoping you would weigh in on that. I just thought having it switched might not be bad? Of course, I can got straight to the start if you think best? I’m using 6awg FYI. Looking for your wisdom on this one. I also want the 3 button remote. Funds require me to add that later in the season and I’m going to use the rocker switch for now. Adding the remote will be an easy add later and I agree with you on its usefulness.

Pelagic2520 - Thank you for your reply. I’m trying to keep everything to ABYC standards and I appreciate your comments. I need to double check my neg post but I’m fairly sure I’m at 3 or maybe 4 already on my Neg terminal. I did add a blue seas 250A bus in my bulge when I did my last big project with the battery charger and inverter etc. That is one lug, the cabin bus is 2 and need to check what else. I know I kept that code in mind when I did that project. If I need to add another bus next to my start I will. Thanks for the input.
 
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Mpellet - thanks for your feedback. I completely understand the anchor ball concept with offshore anchoring. It’s a solid way to go. Last year I got offshore bottom fishing or fishing zero times, I’m a little ashamed to say. Currently I’m 99% backing into the backside of an island in 7 to 10 feet with a cross current and other boats many times, close on my sides. I’m just trying to eliminate my wife or solo me from having to do as much on the bow. The length of chain and rode is mostly a concern for having no jams on the windless. Also, what I can get away with size wise in the locker. Thanks for the idea and it may well be part of the solution as my offshore set up.

Warthog - yea the 40 to 60 using 200 ish is thin scope but if I’m offshore 3 to 1 fishing for a few is ok. If it’s that rough, I’m not out there anyway. Might be where a separate ball set up comes in? However, I want as much rode as I can fit without jams on my normal 50 to 80’ of beach parking. I did purchase the 700 with the free fall, hear ya on that. Got you on chain size also, I really want to use more chain….like 70/80’ or so though. I think it will function better on the Gypsy and maybe jam less. You’re a FLA guy, you know backing in on the bar or island, that’s 99% of what I do. Pos to BEP was a big question for me. You may not remember, but I have a 3000W pure sine wave inverter running AC and heat and that runs off that big AGM in my bilge all connected the the BEP on house side. I was a little concerned about running additional big surges through the BEP and if I should just go straight to the battery with the windless. It will have a 50A breaker shut off anyway. I was hoping you would weigh in on that. I just thought having it switched might not be bad? Of course, I can got straight to the start if you think best? I’m using 6awg FYI. Looking for your wisdom on this one. I also want the 3 button remote. Funds require me to add that later in the season and I’m going to use the rocker switch for now. Adding the remote will be an easy add later and I agree with you on its usefulness.

Pelagic2520 - Thank you for your reply. I’m trying to keep everything to ABYC standards and I appreciate your comments. I need to double check my neg post but I’m fairly sure I’m at 3 or maybe 4 already on my Neg terminal. I did add a blue seas 250A bus in my bulge when I did my last big project with the battery charger and inverter etc. That is one lug, the cabin bus is 2 and need to check what else. I know I kept that code in mind when I did that project. If I need to add another bus next to my start I will. Thanks for the input.

Shawn,

I copy all. A few tidbits and then I promise to stand down.


First: I‘m sure people do otherwise but it’s a really bad idea to run around with an anchor hanging from the pulpit on the windlass without a safety pin. If the clutch on the windlass fails or someone inadvertently deploys the windlass while you’re underway, anchor and chain deploy with great potential to get up into the propeller, trim tabs, bottom of the hull, transducers etc.
All of which translates to a really bad and perhaps very expensive day.
Keeping this in mind, means that unless you accept this risk of running around with an unpinned windlass someone must still head to the bow to pull the safety pin when it’s time to drop anchor.

Second: The manual for the windlass will state that the boat should NOT be pulling on the windlass when the anchor is deployed, so once the anchor is down, someone still has to cleat the rode off and then when it’s time to haul the anchor someone still has to go to the bow to uncleat the rode and reinstall the safety pin once the anchor is stowed.

Third : Occasionally the anchor rode will foul below below deck in the locker even if the windlass is installed as perfectly as possible for maximize free fall. Parkers just don’t have a lot of free fall from the deck into the anchor locker. I suppose one could add some above deck blocking to raise up the windlass mounting to increase free fall distance but that equates to more work on install and might look tacky. If you use the anchor a lot, the rode will stay flexible and that will help performance but if you’re going weeks or months between anchor deployments, the rode is gonna dry out, get stiff and be more prone to fouling in the locker.

(Save the $$ and effort on the windlass and put in a Raymarine Evolution EV-150 Autopilot) No I didn’t just write that, it’s your imagination 😉.

Ok I’m done. Hopefully your windlass install goes great, your windlass works perfectly and you look back on my post and chuckle at what a flaming fool I am.😂

Take care…..👍
 
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Shawn,

I copy all. A few tidbits and then I promise to stand down.


First: I‘m sure people do otherwise but it’s a really bad idea to run around with an anchor hanging from the pulpit on the windlass without a safety pin. If the clutch on the windlass fails or someone inadvertently deploys the windlass while you’re underway, anchor and chain deploy with great potential to get up into the propeller, trim tabs, bottom of the hull, transducers etc.
All of which translates to a really bad and perhaps very expensive day.
Keeping this in mind, means that unless you accept this risk of running around with an unpinned windlass someone must still head to the bow to pull the safety pin when it’s time to drop anchor.

Second: The manual for the windlass will state that the boat should NOT be pulling on the windlass when the anchor is deployed, so once the anchor is down, someone still has to cleat the rode off and then when it’s time to haul the anchor someone still has to go to the bow to uncleat the rode and reinstall the safety pin once the anchor is stowed.

Third : Occasionally the anchor rode will foul below below deck in the locker even if the windlass is installed as perfectly as possible for maximize free fall. Parkers just don’t have a lot of free fall from the deck into the anchor locker. I suppose one could add some above deck blocking to raise up the windlass mounting to increase free fall distance but that equates to more work on install and might look tacky. If you use the anchor a lot, the rode will stay flexible and that will help performance but if you’re going weeks or months between anchor deployments, the rode is gonna dry out, get stiff and be more prone to fouling in the locker.

(Save the $$ and effort on the windlass and put in a Raymarine Evolution EV-150 Autopilot) No I didn’t just write that, it’s your imagination 😉.

Ok I’m done. Hopefully your windlass install goes great, your windlass works perfectly and you look back on my post and chuckle at what a flaming fool I am.😂

Take care…..👍
All valid points on securing the anchor and windless op. It is still less to do that hauling the anchor and stowing it. I’m not sure yet which method I’m going to use but may just use a snub line and carabiner? I’ve also always wanted an auto pilot but that will be another day.
 
For the Safety on the anchor on Pulpit....I've used 1/4in parachute cord, doubled threw the chain....just aft of the swivel and cleted off.
The seperate Master ON/OFF sw helps , so as no one can bump the switch to deploy. You have to intentionally turn the Power On or Off to the windless.

When we would anchor on the island. My son at the helm. Me on Bow with remote. Deploy anchor while backing boat toward island. He backs, kills engine and lifts engine in one motion.... I step off with smaller stern anchor and still have remote.. Set and clete stern anchor....Use remote to adjust position and tension on stern anchor.
 
All valid points on securing the anchor and windless op. It is still less to do that hauling the anchor and stowing it. I’m not sure yet which method I’m going to use but may just use a snub line and carabiner? I’ve also always wanted an auto pilot but that will be another day.

Here’s what I made up: bought and crimped some cable to fit around the forward post of the windlass, could just as easily go to a cleat. The turnbuckle and quick release hook are 316 stainless sail rigging hardware from West Marine. A quick pull releases the hook, and the turnbuckle makes it easy to take tension off the windlass when the anchor is stowed. When it’s deployed, the ride is made fast to the same post.

7438A6D5-9647-4761-8489-EF1B5D2F8CAA.jpeg37CE36C1-CE30-4BC6-A001-4427DE8C379D.jpeg
 
For the Safety on the anchor on Pulpit....I've used 1/4in parachute cord, doubled threw the chain....just aft of the swivel and cleted off.
The seperate Master ON/OFF sw helps , so as no one can bump the switch to deploy. You have to intentionally turn the Power On or Off to the windless.

When we would anchor on the island. My son at the helm. Me on Bow with remote. Deploy anchor while backing boat toward island. He backs, kills engine and lifts engine in one motion.... I step off with smaller stern anchor and still have remote.. Set and clete stern anchor....Use remote to adjust position and tension on stern anchor.
And that’s how it’s done. Exactly why I want to add the windless…..and eventually the remote. So what do u think of 70/80’ of chain? Additional benefit, may help prevent inexperienced, we will call them, boaters from cutting my line at the beach? More about not jamming though.
Also, what about a breaker at the helm and one also by the start battery to keep it more ABYC?
 
Also, what about a breaker at the helm and one also by the start battery to keep it more ABYC?

If you’d prefer to have the breaker at the helm, a more economical option would be to place a fuse at the switch rated for near the maximum ampacity of the wire feeding the windlass. Then install a breaker sized as per the windlass manufacturer’s instructions at the helm. The fuse will protect the wiring and will likely be much cheaper than a breaker; the breaker (which will likely be much lower rated than the fuse) will allow you to quickly reset the circuit should you unintentionally overload your windlass and trip the breaker. Not much point in having two breakers in the system.
 
No one has mentioned the rode, but I highly recommend the 8 plaite rode, don't even waste your money on the 3 strand. It will coil easily and more compact and not be prone to getting jammed like the 3 strand will. I will also say look at a GOOD Windlass. They blow a Lewmar away and similiarly priced, esp since you are doing the install yourself. The biggest issue with a wndlass is the hause hole which is not centered over the center of the anchor locker. The way Parker installs them from the factory if you fishing over 60' you will probably have to crawl down and sweep the anchor locker every 100' or so as it will pile up under the hause hole and will then jam in the stopper. Best scenario would be remove anchor locker hatch from the deck and fabricate something out of Starboard so the hole will center over the locker and make things run much smoother.
 
No one has mentioned the rode, but I highly recommend the 8 plaite rode, don't even waste your money on the 3 strand. It will coil easily and more compact and not be prone to getting jammed like the 3 strand will. I will also say look at a GOOD Windlass. They blow a Lewmar away and similiarly priced, esp since you are doing the install yourself. The biggest issue with a wndlass is the hause hole which is not centered over the center of the anchor locker. The way Parker installs them from the factory if you fishing over 60' you will probably have to crawl down and sweep the anchor locker every 100' or so as it will pile up under the hause hole and will then jam in the stopper. Best scenario would be remove anchor locker hatch from the deck and fabricate something out of Starboard so the hole will center over the locker and make things run much smoother.
@Lucky John, I just posted another thread on this topic GOOD Brand Anchor Windlass but which Good windlass do you have? I’m trying to see how an 850 would fit on my bow and work with the space available in the anchor locker. Also, they come in different shaft lengths, I’m curious to see which one would fit best. Thinking about upgrading from my Good 500 rope only windlass.
 
From time to time during freefall, I would have a jam (700ff with 15' of chain and 8 plait rode) where the rode would run up on the starboard side of the control arm and impede free fall. I experimented a LOT and finally fixed it by installing a certain shape of bolt through the control arm. That much chain should really help pack your rode in the locker, and a little extra weight all the way in the front certainly can't hurt. I would go with 300' total. With a scope of only 5 at 60 feet deep, you already need 300. I have seen a recommended scope of 10 for overnighting. I bundled my innermost 100' of rode and ty rapped it up out of the way, so it it available (in a pinch) but not elevating the rest of the rode as it comes into the locker.
 

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If you’d prefer to have the breaker at the helm, a more economical option would be to place a fuse at the switch rated for near the maximum ampacity of the wire feeding the windlass. Then install a breaker sized as per the windlass manufacturer’s instructions at the helm. The fuse will protect the wiring and will likely be much cheaper than a breaker; the breaker (which will likely be much lower rated than the fuse) will allow you to quickly reset the circuit should you unintentionally overload your windlass and trip the breaker. Not much point in having two breakers in the system.
Thanks for this advice. The Lewmar ProFish specs call for, and the kit comes with, a 50A breaker switch. It should be mounted close to the battery but I like the idea of having the ability to turn it on/off from the helm. Maybe just a fuse at the battery then?
 
From time to time during freefall, I would have a jam (700ff with 15' of chain and 8 plait rode) where the rode would run up on the starboard side of the control arm and impede free fall. I experimented a LOT and finally fixed it by installing a certain shape of bolt through the control arm. That much chain should really help pack your rode in the locker, and a little extra weight all the way in the front certainly can't hurt. I would go with 300' total. With a scope of only 5 at 60 feet deep, you already need 300. I have seen a recommended scope of 10 for overnighting. I bundled my innermost 100' of rode and ty rapped it up out of the way, so it it available (in a pinch) but not elevating the rest of the rode as it comes into the locker.
That’s a great idea on the extra rode. That may well be my compromise to extend the amount of rode in my set up and my goal of room for fall and less/no jams. Keep in mind, 99% of my anchoring will be in 6’ of calm water backing into the beach. I do understand the scope issue if I’m offshore fishing an AR. If I’m out there doing that, you can bet it’s a calm nice day. With a lot of chain, I figured I could get away with 3/1 fishing for an hour or 2. If I’m anchored for the night, I’m in 10 to 15’ or so of water and I would want to have a good 5/1 for that. I’m pretty decided on the 8 plate and at least 80’ of chain. If you’re fitting 15’ of chain and that much rode without big issues that is good to know. I definitely want as much as I can get away with without loosing function.
 
No one has mentioned the rode, but I highly recommend the 8 plaite rode, don't even waste your money on the 3 strand. It will coil easily and more compact and not be prone to getting jammed like the 3 strand will. I will also say look at a GOOD Windlass. They blow a Lewmar away and similiarly priced, esp since you are doing the install yourself. The biggest issue with a wndlass is the hause hole which is not centered over the center of the anchor locker. The way Parker installs them from the factory if you fishing over 60' you will probably have to crawl down and sweep the anchor locker every 100' or so as it will pile up under the hause hole and will then jam in the stopper. Best scenario would be remove anchor locker hatch from the deck and fabricate something out of Starboard so the hole will center over the locker and make things run much smoother.
All good points John. 8 Plate for sure. I already have the Lewmar so that ship has sailed. I did read many not great things about them so I’m crossing my fingers it works out. There are several on CP who have done the anchor locker hatch mod and mounted there. It’s a sound concept but I decided against it mostly because I didn’t want to do the fabrication to make it happen. I have drilled my first hole for it last night and getting ready to do the rest today. I have set it as far back on the pulpit as I could for the reasons with the fall you mentioned. This is all why I’m going to do my best with the rode/chain combination to hopefully, make the less than ideal windless placement, function the best I can make it.
 
Here’s what I made up: bought and crimped some cable to fit around the forward post of the windlass, could just as easily go to a cleat. The turnbuckle and quick release hook are 316 stainless sail rigging hardware from West Marine. A quick pull releases the hook, and the turnbuckle makes it easy to take tension off the windlass when the anchor is stowed. When it’s deployed, the ride is made fast to the same post.

View attachment 35806View attachment 35805
Thats a nice set up. Thanks for the ideas
 
Thanks for this advice. The Lewmar ProFish specs call for, and the kit comes with, a 50A breaker switch. It should be mounted close to the battery but I like the idea of having the ability to turn it on/off from the helm. Maybe just a fuse at the battery then?
Yes. Size the fuse as per the ampacity of the feeder cable. What size cable are you using?
 
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