Wheelhouse/doghouse build

[Longislandfish]

Hello,

I have been posting my build in a different thread however I feel it’s probably better to start my own and post pictures and updates to anyone interested, may not be everyone’s cup of tea but I figured I’d share because down the line you never know if someone can find this useful for a build.


I started my build back at the end of June. I constructed a small wheelhouse to bolt ontop of my console on my 2004 Parker 1801.

The design was inspired by traditional doghouse design with forward rake and a small crowned roof. I played with some dimensions on paper and reworked it until I had something useful. I did have some snags along the design path, one of them was that my initial design incorporated the entire helm being covered, however the helm was mounted to far port and rubbed on the walls of my first mock-up design. I even purchased an 11 inch wheel with the same result.

Fast forward 2.5 months and I have glassed the plywood strucutre with polyester resin, 1.5oz Matt and 1708 bias.

The lamination schedule on the outside was roughly 3 layer of 1.5oz Matt, around the roof edge I used .75 oz Matt and laminated it slowly as the radius was very small.

Plywood used was AB exterior plywood 1/2. All pieces cut and assembled with countersunk screws in the endgrain with butt joints.

Hand routed the corners so the glass would take the radius.

Used a lot of glass bc I wanted to build it strong.

I faired it out used polyester compound and a block and longboard.

Final stages are currently high build epoxy primer and interlux perfection in oyster white.

I added stainless grab rails, vertical mount navigation lights, anchor light. Will be adding radar as well.

Windows will be 1/4 laminated solar safety glass with rubber extrusion locking gaskets.

It’s been a fun build and a lot of work, finish work takes time, what some people feel is acceptable others may not be satisfied, I’m the later.

This will be mounted with stainless bolts with a custom 1/4 aluminum backing plate inside console.

It’s strong as an ox. Not too heavy but deff not 20 lbs either

 

[Longislandfish]

Interlux perfection 2 stage rolled no tipping.

3 coats, took a bit of messing with thinner and application techniques to get it nearly perfect. Great product but there are many variables that can ruin your finish.

Windows go in tomorrow

 

[tomc585]

So shiney

 

[warthog5]

It Looks Just Fine.

 

[Longislandfish]

Windows installed, need to mount the launchers and lights and get it up on the console. Pleased with the results and hope it serves its purpose. Learned a lot and am happy to have tried my hand at fiberglass work, it’s very rewarding to step back and admire something I designed and fabricated, all while actually looking what I envisioned.

You can really push the envelope with levels of finishing, I settled on it because I could probably spent hours fairing and sanding and shaping as well as wet sanding and painting. Mold quality builds are not easy, a mold would have produced a nearly flawless surface. Will try my and and producing a mold next!

Thanks for following along,
Maybe this will inspire someone else to build something you envision.

 

[tomc585]

Don't forget the wiper blade!

 

[VCC]

Very nice job, especially since, as you said, it was your first rodeo -)

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

Did you get an actual weight on it by chance?

 

[Longislandfish]

Did you get an actual weight on it by chance?

No, it’s not 30 lbs tho, I’d estimate 120-130lbs. But it’s build like a brick shut house.

Very nice job, especially since, as you said, it was your first rodeo -)

thank you brother. You never know what to expect.

 

[Longislandfish]

Got it up with the help of my neighbor and they were in awe and didn’t believe I built the house. Well it’s up on console and getting bolted and wired. Next post will be a review of the performance and how and if I’d change anything

 

[tomc585]

Got it up with the help of my neighbor

 

[Longislandfish]

Good or bad lol

 

[tomc585]

Definitely need a scale weight before it goes on all rigged.

 

[Longislandfish]

Definitely need a scale weight before it goes on all rigged.

Too late lol. I’m gonna have to settle on 130lbs. Nidacore would be a lot lighter as would Cossa or straight glass layup with core Matt, however this one was done with good old fashion ply and poly. I usually boat solo but I have zero doubts that this will affect the ride or provide any issues for the hull. It’s backed up with 1/4 aluminum flat stock. I can hang off the roof and it dosent budge, it will rip the console off the deck before this connection gives out. There was a post discussing the shear and a very knowledgeable engineer explained all this and even gave a rough estimate with wind force generators and the theoretical final calculated pull out force was 300lbs at 40mph into 40mph bead wind. I will be shocked if this happens, plus there are 2-3 other people who have done this exact project and they still functional. Final calculated weight 130lbs prior to glassing the inside I was around 65 lbs add another 10-15 plus my windows and 130 is where I’m landing.


I’m going to add larger self taping stainless hardware to fasten the console to the deck, I can’t figure out how to through bolt and I don’t think it’s necessary. The idea of adding aluminum angle crossed my mind too but don’t feel like torturing the console with more holes. Additional larger screws in the console bottom should do it. All that’s there are #10 SS sheet metal screws, idk if Parker used adhesive on the bottom of this ?


Anyone with any structural engineering solutions welcome to weigh in

 

[mbaltay]

Hi. Looks pretty sweet. Great job.

Sounds like your pilothouse- console connection is pretty solid.

Can you please remind me, how is your console attached to your deck currently?
And do you know how thick the deck is?

If I remember correctly, the lower console has a flange about 1-1/2 inches which is turned inwards?

Like I mentioned before, I'd try to get out on the water and get up a bit of speed, see if there is any movement or signs of stress at the pilot h. -console connection. If all good take her up after and again look for signs.
I would think that if you need to reinforce that further you could add fasteners or whatever whole docked. Depending on that test, maybe consider reinforcing the front two corners or front flange which is where the max load occurs at least assuming the forward motion wind forces are the main high load circumstance. (which may not be the case, as opposed to say lateral impulses in a side to side high seas condition, where I could see high loads of the 130 lbs bouncing around. Happy to help if u post detailed pics or specific questions.

BestMB

 

[Longislandfish]

Hi. Looks pretty sweet. Great job.

Sounds like your pilothouse- console connection is pretty solid.

Can you please remind me, how is your console attached to your deck currently?
And do you know how thick the deck is?

If I remember correctly, the lower console has a flange about 1-1/2 inches which is turned inwards?

Like I mentioned before, I'd try to get out on the water and get up a bit of speed, see if there is any movement or signs of stress at the pilot h. -console connection. If all good take her up after and again look for signs.
I would think that if you need to reinforce that further you could add fasteners or whatever whole docked. Depending on that test, maybe consider reinforcing the front two corners or front flange which is where the max load occurs at least assuming the forward motion wind forces are the main high load circumstance. (which may not be the case, as opposed to say lateral impulses in a side to side high seas condition, where I could see high loads of the 130 lbs bouncing around. Happy to help if u post detailed pics or specific questions.

BestMB

Here what I have done, it wasn’t an easy chore but I think for the most part the pilot house to console connection should be solid enough.

I had to custom cut and grind 1 inch wide pieces of 1/4 aluminum flat stock, and carefully align the bolts which was very difficult since the entry point of the bolts and it’s trajectory course wasn’t exactly perpendicular and given it was about a 3 inch bolt requirement totally sucked. I had to also trim the bolts in the corners to allow for the bolts to fully seat otherwise they intersected at the 90 degree areas.

So currently I have all three sides backed up, I went with 10/24 pitch carriage bolts in stainless steel which are 3/16 diameter and have a tensile strength of 70k psi. I could go up to slightly larger diameter but I would have a tough time with limited space to seat lock nuts and actually be able to use a wrench to torque them. They seem adequate here and there are 7 of them total.

I am going to run a bead of 3M 4000 or 4200 along the mounting surface to increase surface adhesion and also act as a gasket and cushion to eliminate any annoying creaking noises or rubbing that may occur while under way.

The console is connected to the deck from the inside of the console. It has a fully enclosed bottom that is secured via ss #10 screws around perimeter and not too many. I believe they may also use adhesive under the console bottom between the deck and console as well but have no actual proof of this. I would have thought the console was bolted down that’s how strong it felt to me all these years but it’s only tiny little screws holding it.

Dexk I believe is 5/8 or 3/4 inch marine ply glassed, on the top, bottom is encapsulated with just poly not sure there’s any actual glass on it. Deff a strong deck

I was going to upsize the screws to something beefy with big fender washers and increase the number of fasteners to spread the load below. There is not way to back this console up from under the deck without having to cut an inspection plate in and I’m not doin that.

The other thing I was thinking was getting 12-18 inch piece of 3x3 aluminum angle and 5200 it to the inside walls sides and bottom, and then drilling screwing it to the deck

Last option use the stringer layout Diagram and try to hit them with stainless lags from inside console which should make this connection super strong but would need to locate them. I’m pretty sure they are 17.5 from center line but would need to check.



Pics of the backed up wheelhouse
Pic of the console to deck connection

 

[Longislandfish]

Took a video to show how it’s mounted and the strength connection. I mean, unless a 300lb guy is trying to rip it off the console with an explosive Olympic lift I think it’s probably fine. I think even a t top will shake and twist.
View attachment IMG_6031.mov

 

[Efx]

Excellent work. Thanks for all the photos, they really help. The pilot house proportions look balanced. I’m about to start the exact same project on a 1975 classic mako 20’.

 

[Longislandfish]

Excellent work. Thanks for all the photos, they really help. The pilot house proportions look balanced. I’m about to start the exact same project on a 1975 classic mako 20’.

My pleasure bro. Good luck, and glass away!!

Proportion and symmetry will make or break the look. Sketch it out first and scale your drawings you will learn a lot quickly. If you’re going to build a reverse raked window I’d go with 15 degree anything over that looks too aggressive for 18-20ft hull. Also make sure that you take into account where you start the rake, I went up 8 inches to give from passenger head room and this equates to 40 inches of vertical height from the deck. Plenty for average male

 

[adverse760]

Looks great!